An Emirati designer brings her vision of heritage to the Dolce & Gabbana ateliers in Milan

Emirati designer Maitha Al Ansari goes beyond the idea of ​​literal transfer of heritage symbols in contemporary fashion to understanding their connotations and reinterpreting them without breaking the connection with their roots. This approach is reflected in her design, A Journey Woven in Fragments, which won the 2025 Design Award, drawing on Emirati and Italian cultural references to present a contemporary interpretation of the abaya that maintains modesty and elegance without being restricted to one traditional form.

The Abu Dhabi Group for Culture and Arts is organizing the Design Award in cooperation with the Italian house Dolce & Gabbana, and winning will give Al Ansari the opportunity to train for six months in January 2027 in the workshops of the fashion house in the Italian city of Milan, where she will work alongside its craftsmen and learn about embroidery techniques, fabric processing, and constructing designs. It should be noted that the award is determined according to the year in which the application cycle began.

The 2025 session was opened during that year, but the judging process continued until 2026, when the finalists presented their designs after developing them, and the committee chose the winning design. Al-Ansari explains in an interview with the Ofoq News website in Arabic that her design stemmed from the idea of ​​meeting two cultures while preserving the privacy of each, as the design elements were inspired by architecture, floral motifs, traditional patterns, and craftsmanship, using the patchwork technique to embody different cultural influences within one design, in addition to digital printing and hand embroidery.

Choosing the story was an essential part of the idea; She wanted to present a piece that combines the flow and modesty of the abaya and the luxurious shape of a cape, while adding a contemporary character and flexibility to wear. Al Ansari believes that the significance of the abaya goes beyond its shape, to be linked to modesty, elegance, identity, and the transformations that Emirati women have witnessed.

Therefore, for her, respecting heritage does not mean abstaining from the experience, but rather carefully understanding its meanings and reinterpreting it. The Emirati designer does not require that heritage references appear literally in every design; Inspiration may come from an architectural form, texture, execution technique, or memory associated with a place.

She believes that the heritage-inspired element should serve the idea, and not be added merely for decoration, especially since the goal is to develop new forms that remain linked to their cultural roots. Modest fashion and women's choices. Al-Ansari launched her ready-to-wear fashion brand in 2013, with the aim of providing alternatives to the traditional black abaya by diversifying cuts, fabrics, colors, and details, while maintaining modesty.

But her vision has evolved over the years; It has begun to pay greater attention to quality, comfort, versatility, and the suitability of designs to women’s lifestyle, taking into account their daily needs at work, events, travel, and family life. The Emirati designer stresses that modest fashion should not limit creativity, but rather provide diverse options instead of imposing one form of clothing, giving women the freedom to express their personality.

Six months in Milan and ambitions for the next stage. Al-Ansari looks forward to training in Milan to learn from the craftsmanship that distinguishes the Italian house, especially in embroidery, fabric processing, and design construction techniques. After more than a decade in the fashion industry, the Emirati designer sees this experience as an opportunity to return to the spirit of research and experience that attracted her from the beginning to this field.

It also aspires to employ the skills it will acquire in its upcoming collections, by combining traditional craftsmanship with contemporary cuts, exploring new techniques and cooperating with craftsmen, in addition to developing designs that fall between fashion and art, in parallel with providing pieces intended for daily use. Al Ansari co-founded “House of 45” in the Emirate of Sharjah, UAE, with the aim of providing a platform for emerging designers.

Through this experience, I learned about the challenges they face when moving from developing ideas to building sustainable brands. Therefore, Al Ansari finds that talent alone is not enough, as designers also need reliable production houses, specialized technical teams, business management mentorship, retail opportunities, and building professional relationships.

She stresses the importance of continued support after competitions and exhibitions, by providing manufacturing opportunities, commercial partnerships, and long-term mentorship, which helps designers develop viable and growing collections.