“Paradise Mountains” in Kyrgyzstan...a destination that combines mountain trails and traditional tents

Editor's Note: This article was written by travel photographer and writer Stephen Lewie. It only took a few steps up a snow-covered cliff to reach the top of the pass, and when I finally crossed it, I was presented with a panoramic view of mountain ranges forming a backdrop to an expanse of icy blue water. The surrounding peaks are known as the "Paradise Mountains", a rough translation of the name "Tenger Tu" in Kyrgyz and "Tian Shan" in Chinese.

From my position, where I feel as if I am on top of the world, I cannot help but agree with this label. The view over Lake Ala-Kol is among the many stunning sights along the 110-kilometre hiking trail through Kyrgyzstan.

The Ak-Suu Transverse Trail, or AST, is one of the most beautiful parts of the Kyrgyz Tien Shan Mountains. In the past, this trail was the preserve of experienced hikers willing to carry heavy bags filled with a days' worth of supplies, including tents, food, and clothing.

Recently, thanks to pioneering initiatives to repurpose the traditional circular boz-ui-yurts used seasonally by nomadic herders into a relatively comfortable accommodation network in this isolated location, it has become possible to traverse this route with a small backpack containing only one day's necessities. I was filled with doubt as I trekked down the mountain pass, wondering: Will I be able to find camp if it keeps raining?

While my doubts increased when darkness fell, I heard a voice calling my name from a high place: “Steven!” An experience worth the cost I followed him to the tent, and within half an hour, I found tea ready and a plate of pilof, a filling Central Asian staple of rice, meat and vegetables, in front of me.

When I removed my wet clothes and enjoyed the warmth emanating from the place, I realized that the cost of staying in these tents was worth the cost. The trail begins in Jirgalan, an eco-tourism center in the far east of Kyrgyzstan, and passes through seven mountain passes with a total vertical elevation exceeding 21,600 feet (about 6,500 metres).

The path embraces mountain lakes and waterfalls amidst the green pastures of "Jailo", where shepherds graze their herds during the summer. The trek is usually completed in nine days, with overnight options available in traditional yurts along the route.

In 2024, Daniyar Alembikov, a local trail guide turned entrepreneur, transformed his tour company Kyrgyz Life. Instead of just organizing expedition teams with guides, cooks and porters, he created an integrated network of yurt camps along the entire route. Alembikov says he was inspired to provide these accommodations after seeing three camps that were already on the trail flourish.

At first, he thought of adding only three more sites, but he explained: “I later realized that the project would grow, and that I needed to cover the entire route.” TRAVEL LIGHT The camps have now expanded into small villages, and business continues to flourish despite some logistical challenges.

Unlike the vast majority of hiking trails in Kyrgyzstan, the Ak-Su Trail allows hikers to venture out on their own, with only a small backpack and mountain walking sticks. With Kyrgyz Life's yurt camps providing meals and shelter, hikers actually only need extra clothes and a camera to make the most of the trip.

A pot of tea awaits you mid-trip. The difference is stark. Years ago, hikers would only see a few shepherds for the first five or last two days of the trail. But now I come across several groups of hikers making their way towards Ala-Kul Lake.

In the absence of roads, lifts and infrastructure in these remote areas, there is a general belief that finding such pristine nature has become a rarity in popular tourist destinations. Beyond the lake and the Takyr-Tor Glacier, mountain peaks exceeding 16,000 feet (about 4,800 meters) create an unforgettable panorama.

In one of the nearby yurt camps, a pot of warm tea is always waiting for visitors. “As someone who has hiked around the world, I can say that this trail combines all the really great features,” says Tara Fenwick-Smith, an American hiker who has completed the AST trail.

She added: “Our experience was not only limited to seeing stunning landscapes in the remote areas of Kyrgyzstan, but we also had the opportunity to learn about the hospitable culture of the people.” Practical information Karakol Airport (IKG), a major hub for long-distance flights, has been designated as an international airport after its long-awaited reopening in 2024, but flights currently operating are limited to domestic routes between the Kyrgyz capital, Bishkek, and the southern city of Osh.

In contrast, the nearby Issyk-Kul International Airport (IKU) receives seasonal flights from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Russia, while Manas International Airport (BSZ) in Bishkek has an extensive flight network linking it to major airports in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. An all-inclusive self-guided hiking trip (including accommodation in traditional yurts and three meals per day) starts at approximately $64 per day when booked directly through Kyrgyz Life.

Guides and horses are also available at an additional cost if needed.